Exploring Kefalonia: Castles, Caves, and Coastal Views

Day 1: Assos Castle & Fiskardo

From Lefkada we headed over to Keflalonia for a few days.

Heading down to Vasiliki we drove onto the boat which would take us to the island of Kefalonia. Getting on a boat in Greece always takes me back to the first time that I went Island hopping in Greece. After flying to Athens my friend and I took a bus to the port of Piraeus, armed only with a rucksack including our own tents we stood looking at the seeming chaos which unfolded in front of our eyes. Eventually we got on a boat heading to the Island of Poros (I can’t even remember if this was the plan or if we just took our chance!) we watched as cars and people were loaded onto the boat, sardines in a tin came to mind and off we sailed. All well that ended well as I am still here to tell the tale, and I do remember finding a wonderful campsite under shaded pine trees and feasting on the simple but amazing Greek salad and then we were adventurous enough to wash it down with an Ouzo or two!

Anyway, as I watched the boat being loaded nothing much seemed to have changed in 30 years – and the most remarkable thing being – we left precisely on time! We sepnt the surprisingly choppy crossing hanging over the rails trying to spot elusive dolpins we arrived in the port of Fiskardo, Kefalonia.

We headed straight for Assos, a picturesque village nestled by the sea. From there, we took on the 2 km climb up to the Assos Castle ruins. It was a hot, steady uphill trek requiring plenty of water breaks, but the sweeping coastal views made every step worth it. Walking among the stone remains—built by the Venetians in the late 16th century to defend against pirate raids—we were amazed by how much of the original fortress has endured the centuries.

Our accommodation while in Kefalonia was at a quiet hotel in the tiny hamlet of Magganos . In the evening we drove 10 minutes down to the harbour town of Fiskardo for dinner. Fiskardo’s harbour split into two distinct vibes with The Main Strip being casual, lively, and centered around quick bites like classic gyros and The Far End of the harbour, a bit higher in price, but well worth the extra euros for outstanding local dishes and excellent Kefalonian wine, all enjoyed while watching yachts glide into the marina.

Day 2: Melissani Cave Lake and a tour of the Island.

Our second day began with a visit to the famous Melissani Cave Lake. This natural phenomenon was formed thousands of years ago when the cave roof collapsed, allowing sunlight to illuminate the vibrant blue water below. In Greek mythology, it was known as the Cave of the Nymphs. Despite a 40-minute wait in line for a 15-minute boat ride inside, the glowing water and subterranean view made it completely worth the time.

From there, our route took us across the island: where we spent the afternoon relaxing on Antisamos Beach: Calm, refreshing water that offered some of the best snorkeling of the trip.

As we had driven down to the bottom of the island we decided to continue on to make it a round trip and headed to Argostoli: The island’s bustling capital. While it features a large harbour and town centre, it lacked the charm of the smaller coastal spots. We ate a quick dinner and continued our journey.

We wanted to make Myrtos Beach Viewpoint by sunset and as we drove back over the high mountain road toward Divarata it felt like reaching the top of the world. We timed it just right to catch an incredible sunset over Myrtos Beach.

Day 3: Another Beach and more Fine Dining

By day three, beach fatigue was setting in, but Jerusalem Beach proved to be a welcome surprise—a quiet, relaxing spot with great snorkeling and a family run restaurant which provided us with some amazing calamari for lunch!

We wrapped up the trip with dinner at Restaurant Meliti, a venue set right on the water overlooking the sea. The food was top-tier, paired perfectly with local Kefalonian wine. While a steady stream of diners spent the evening posing for the perfect social media photo, we simply sat back, enjoyed the meal, and took in the sunset firsthand.

The next day we headed back on the boat to Lefkada and the start of our return trip to North Macedonia – with a small detour for an overnight stop in the Pindus mountains by the Vikos Gorge.